The Kiko Kostadinov fall 2023 menswear collection has arrived. See every look:
This was the last meaningful runway tilt at the citadel of “menswear” in a menswear season that contained several of them, from JW Anderson to Jeanne Friot and more, all fired from different angles. Kiko Kostadinov’s was fantastic and also fantastical. As he explained backstage, he imagined a group of schoolboys who were invited to create a collection for themselves, but whose research material was based on four unsung influences from the womenswear design canon.
Apart from understanding that Beretta designed Max Mara’s defining 101801 camel coat and having attended one of Krizia’s last shows, I was not that up to speed on these designers. For sure few others in the audience were either. But that starting platform allowed Kostadinov to build a runway performance in which he teased away at the edges of “menswear,” presenting his models on a raised gantry on which they occasionally paused to drop a hip and pose.
Kostadinov said he also incorporated the codes of Laura and Deanna Fanning, who design the KK brand’s womenswear line, and treated the work of London-based artist Mariann Metsis in the same manner Krizia incorporated animalia. The hood/scarf garments that rested upon and emphasized the left shoulder seemed to contain fossilized echoes of Beretta’s Soy dress. Cape-shouldered shirt/dresses, one Metsis-printed, were, you suspected, almost certainly based on some long-forgotten womenswear gem.
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