A simple puree made from fresh tomatoes, known as a coulis in French and passata in Italian, is incredibly useful in all sorts of preparations.
Most of the year I generally prefer to use eitheror puree canned whole tomatoes myself, since canned tomatoes are riper when picked than your average fresh supermarket tomato. The only challenge is that canned tomatoes taste very cooked, and sometimes you want a fresher tomato flavor. Other times, you have an overabundance of great fresh tomatoes and want to make the most of them .
Of course, you'll also find tomato coulis that are more complicated, with aromatic vegetables or splashes of vinegar and pinches of sugar. I decided not to go down this road, since that ventures more into true sauce territory. Think of a tomato coulis or passata as you would a meat stock: Once you have a good basic method for making it, it becomes the base for many other dishes and sauces down the line.
To make it, I dice tomatoes, then toss them in a pot and set it over moderate heat, stirring frequently. The tomatoes quickly begin dumping out their water as they heat up. We don't have a food mill in the Serious Eats test kitchen , so for this batch I strained the tomatoes manually, pushing them through a mesh strainer with a wooden spoon. A scraping motion is more effective for getting the flesh to pass through than just pushing down.The resulting puree may be a little coarse, depending on the fineness of your strainer.
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