.givenchy's fall 2023 menswear collection debuted today in Paris. See every look:
The soundtrack by Bakar started slowly, elegantly, languidly—almost classically. This intro was accompanied by a group of weepingly fine black suits that Matthew M. Williams said had been crafted in conjunction with Givenchy’s couture atelier. Then, under surging breakbeats, dropped a bassline sothat my Hélas beanie started moving of its own accord, like some overloaded subwoofer.
By beginning with couture tailoring, the most classical form built in the most elevated manner, before then ricocheting across all the sub-genres of contemporary masculine dress while maintaining a disciplined silhouette, Matthew M. Williams today produced arguably the most cohesive and compelling collection of his Givenchy tenure so far.
The punctuation marks in this re-writing were the treated work boots and long-toed derby shoes and enlarged and refabricated versions of the Riccardo Tiscci-era Pandora bag. These accessories framed looks that typically, but not always, were centered in a low-hemmed top or skirt that fell mid-thigh.
Often, but not always, the looks were complemented by oversized classical pieces of outerwear which were Pitti-level highlights in themselves. In the middle of all this action, look 32 represented the eye of the storm: a long leather chore jacket that Williams called a “Bouncer,” above double-knee work pants in leather and an unfussily minimal waistcoat—arguably a template for workwear inspired “formal wear.” The all-marl gray look was its sport-sourced streetwear equivalent.
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