See every look from Zegna's fall 2023 menswear collection:
Alessandro Sartori’s lifelong study of fabric development and tailoring means that he is possibly uniquely qualified in his depth of technical knowledge as a fashion house creative director. And as the captain of Zegna, which has long been committed to vertical integration and material innovation, he is also uniquely placed to push forward the hardware of fabrication while developing his own fashion software.
These attributes synced this afternoon in a Zegna show that displayed the complementary relationship between both. Starting with the technical—without getting too technical—Sartori named the collection the Oasi of Cashmere as a nod to the house’s century old nature reserve as well as his ambition to broaden the fiber’s traditional application as yarn in knitwear in order to apply it in multiple fabrications.
The remaining material was mostly recycled Zegna ‘Use The Existing’ wool, which was the chief protagonist especially in an opening gray section that employed chore coat, “tailored” jacket, and short-sleeved jacket as template shapers of top-half silhouettes. There was also a strong raw-hemmed collarless jacket in more recycled wool, this time undyed.
All of this upgraded hardware is allowing Sartori to refine, deepen, and diversify his software. His template is currently based on a strong and consistent silhouette combining a wide leg-shape and a more form-fitting top half . Now the house is broadening its offer—without diluting quality—to give Zegna-heads infinite opportunity to add new elements to their wardrobe that will work in tandem with the old.
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