Because sometimes you just need a salad. This chicory salad in Santa Monica and Caesar in Echo Park are extraordinary.
The principles remain similar in chef Paul Chung’s treatment of striped bass from Baja. Plus, going for hot pot in Tustin.. Tall, green jagged shards tower over the bowl, concealing thorny tentacles of frisee and mountain of shaved Parmesan curls underneath. The pieces of kryptonite are actually fried rice paper flecked with a green powder made from basil, parsley and lime leaf. You break the pieces and mix them into the salad to create de facto croutons.
The Parmesan cheese and anchovy immediately register Caesar salad. But then there’s a quick fusillade of lemongrass and lime leaf, a tidal wave of Thai basil and some serious oomph from the fish sauce. It’s heavily dressed and unevenly tossed, with intense pockets of dressing and cheese that ensure each bite is its own adventure.It sounds like a lot, and it is. But the flavors entangle, harmonize and build into an otherworldly Caesar unlike any other.That time I ordered the butter flight.
Brian Bornemann may be known best for his mastery of fresh seafood at Crudo e Nudo in Santa Monica, but at the newdown the street, he’s a salad wizard. His chicory salad eats like the best bites of a heavily curated cheese board over a bed of purple and green Coleman Farms treviso.
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