Supply chain issues, drought, and war are conspiring to make it way more expensive to produce the drink around the world.
Pandemic-related shipping issues have also put a hiccup in the cork supply chain. It used to take around 27 days to get them from Lisbon to the Port of Oakland in California and into the Cork Supply USA warehouse. That regularity allowed the company to plan out how much material it would need to fulfill orders for wineries. But no longer. “At its worst—which I would say was probably April, March 2022—we were at like 130 days, but plus/minus,” says Hirson.
A cork shipment delay may not sound like a big deal, but it’s critical for smaller wineries that don’t do their own bottling. They must hire a mobile bottler who shows up with a big truck, into which they pump the wine so it can get dispensed into bottles. These wineries have to supply their own bottles and corks—and have them ready on the right day. “You make that date for the mobile bottler six, eight, 10 months ahead of when you're planning to bottle,” says Hirson.
There are alternatives to cork stoppers, in the form of tin or aluminum screw caps, which aren’t as sensitive to the whims of nature. But they, which also is used to make the protective “foil” capsules you peel off before uncorking. So in addition to disrupting the supply of energy used to produce glass, Russia’s invasion of Ukraine has also held up the supply of wine-bottle tops.
And that’s to say nothing of the wine itself. Grapes are highly susceptible to changes in temperature—that’s partially why zinfandels grown in different parts of the world can taste so different. Sustained, extreme heat is terrible for grapes. “The plant will often shut down and have sometimes severe impacts on the ability to photosynthesize and make sugar, and even grow,” says Elisabeth Forrestel, an assistant professor at UC Davis who studies the effect of climate on grapes.
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