In some parts of the world, kohl is more than just an eyeliner. It is a spiritual practice, a cultural phenomenon, and for writer .karachiiite, it is home.
When I was 13 years old, I stood in front of the mirror and traced a rich black liner around the inner rims of my eyes. Before that moment I'd only been allowed to wear makeup for special occasions and parties, with my mother as the makeup artist, dabbing my eyes withThey would quickly start to water and, as I blinked, the liner silhouetted my eyes with its deep, intense magic.
In the 13 years since I first lined my own eyes, I have expanded my makeup routine, but kohl has been a constant. By the time I was an adult, living and working in Karachi, Pakistan, I layered my entire face with foundation and bronzer, building a lacquered wall against the men I had to deal with outside the sanctuary of my grandmother’s home. But I still wore kajal, its lush pigment defining my heavy-lidded eyes.
I decided to dig a little deeper into the history, sacred practices, and controversies surrounding kohl. Traditional kohl has also been made at home: Ingredients like almonds or aloe vera may be burned using a clay lamp over which a clean plate traps the fumes. The soot that collects on the plate may be mixed with clarified butter or oil, creating kohl — and giving the material its creamy texture and sweet fragrance. This is how our grandmothers and great-grandmothers made cosmetic kajal, often keeping it in small brass bottles.
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