Why the Greedy Gourmands of ‘Succession’ and ‘Billions’ Are Obsessed With Ortolans

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Why the Greedy Gourmands of ‘Succession’ and ‘Billions’ Are Obsessed With Ortolans
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Ortolans have indeed been a delicacy for centuries, But the myth of the ortolan — the dark room, the napkins, the sin, and the shame — is a relatively modern invention.

, family scion Kendall Roy tells Tom that his father particularly loves employees who “ate the shit for him and he never even knew it.” After their act of corporate shit-eating, it’s now time for Tom and Greg to devour their reward.

, as much as Tom may claim that the costume of wealth doesn’t make you look like a prick, the recurrent theme ofis that “its characters are, in fact, huge pricks.” This is a show that “nails what it looks like to have too much money and no style,” in which a character’s every fashion, food, or beverage choice serves to highlight their respective worldview. Think of Kendall, buying trendy Lanvin sneakers en route to a pitch with a prospective VC acquisition.

And then there is the episode’s title, “The Third Ortolan,” which is explained during a short exchange over dinner between Axe Capital COO Mike “Wags” Wagner and real-life celebrity chef Wylie Dufresne. Wags, “still a little peckish,” asks Dufresne whether he has any ortolans leftover. Dufresne replies, “You know what they say about ortolan? ‘One is bliss, two is gluttony.

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