Gothenburg's culinary revolution is here!
—as chefs opt for quieter, less competitive locales in which to practice their craft, all with the same access to the whimsical natural bounty that helped launch Scandinavian cuisine to global fame.
is the minimalist yin to Dorsia’s ornate yang. The focal point of the austere yet somehow still cozy space is the open kitchen. Head chef Henric Herbertsson directs the team of up to five young cooks in its nightly choreography, employing simple techniques to formulate fascinating tastes. Take the blackened scallop enhanced by chives, ginger, and grilled cream—the last ingredient a feat accomplished by adding coal to a vessel of cream as it cooks.
but upscale mood. That same subtle juxtaposition defines the dishes, each a mosaic of flavors and textures. Whether it’s the crispy fennel and lemon jelly with smoked lobster or the jalapeño mayo, roasted tomatoes, and wafer-thin buckwheat crisp—the supporting cast of a dramatic beef tartare—every composition contains an unlikely element or two that invariably ties the dish together.
“We like using ingredients that everyone knows, then blending in some flavor that’s exciting and unexpected, like jam seasoned with dried dulse seaweed that tastes like licorice,” says head chef Joakim Andersson, who comes from a family of fishermen and captures the intrigue of seaweed in a goat-curd ice cream with crispy beets and that anise-flavored jam.
The groundwork for Gothenburg’s culinary greatness was laid even before Redzepi and company signed the New Nordic Food Manifesto in 2004. The French-accented, white-tableclothearned its first Michelin star in 1991 and has maintained it every year since. In tribute to its origins as a wine and cheese café, it boasts one of Sweden’s most impressive wine lists.
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