TikTok creators are reinventing the scathing restaurant review.
, who created the series “Rec or Wreck” , are staples of the TikTok restaurant review niche. They often rack up hundreds of thousands of followers for the poster, and sometimes bring in millions of views. The format is simple, but effective: The creator spends between 30 and 45 seconds giving the viewer a rapidfire rundown of a restaurant’s menu, vibe, and service. Then, like a Roman emperor passing judgment at the coliseum, they deem the spot worthy or, oftentimes, not.
As a generation of TikTok tastemakers enter the world of restaurant criticism, it's easy to write their negative reviews off as shallow . But as creators begin to usher in a renewed era of scathing restaurant reviews—a genre thatduring the height of the pandemic— accounts like The VIP List have developed their own type of critical acumen after visiting hundreds of restaurants.
The appeal of a scorchingly negative review is undeniable. While Adam Platt, former restaurant critic at New York Magazine, is not himself a TikTok devotee, he admits that the negative TikTok review has staying power. “That kind of visual criticism, which is more immediate—I think it's the future of something,” he says. “It's certainly affecting how consumers make their choices.
At the foundation of this divergence, Ho posits, is the motivation and purpose of the professional critic’s review. In any less-than-glowing piece of criticism, Ho engages with the restaurant constructively, sifting through what could be improved and noting what worked well in an effort to convey to the reader the inherently nuanced experience of eating at any restaurant. “A lot of the reviews that I write that have looked negative, I have seen as mixed,” says Ho.
As for a TikTok account like The VIP List, driving engagement is a necessity of the platform, and posting hyperbolized reviews is essential to capturing views and growing audiences. Even the rare mixed review is made extreme through the lens of The VIP List—“Sushi on Jones is the
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