WIRED Intuitive controls through the Fireboard app. Steady temperature. Versatility to flame-broil burgers, slow-smoke brisket, and even make Neapolitan-style pizza. TIRED Expensive. Difficult to move. Temperature control for grilling is not accurate.
, but anyone who has ever fought with a pellet-powered Ooni will understand the appeal. I’ve owned various Ooni ovens for the past three years and use them nearly every Sunday, Midwestern polar vortex or tornado watch be damned. I prefer the flame-kissed crusts from theover the propane models, but pellets can be tricky, and flame-outs have ruined my evening.
The pizza oven attachment sits under the smoker’s hood atop the firebox. The sheet is a diffuser and has holes of increasing size as you move away from the fire so that the section farthest from the flame gets more exposure. The design is supposed to provide a consistent temperature along the oven’s floor, and it works well, with the farthest corners of the oven still cresting 650 degrees.
When you crank the Yoder up to its highest setting, the flames roll over the left side of the pizza oven attachment, imparting char. Using an instant-read thermometer, I measured the temperature inside at 1,000 degrees. The floor of the oven is what Yoder describes as a proprietary stone blend, and it offers impressive temperature consistency and crusts that are crispier than any I’ve had from an Ooni.
Getting a roaring fire going is just the first step in making a good Neapolitan-style pizza. With the Yoder, I’m free to obsess over the milk fat content of the mozzarella. Or to dig into my Diana Kennedy cookbooks for more marinated Mexican chicken recipes. What’s the best brand of achiote paste, anyway?
Traeger is synonymous with the auto-feed pellet grill for a reason, and while the Yoder can hold temperatures more consistently than competitors, it’s probably not worth the extra cash or the challenges of moving around an object that weighs more than the average refrigerator. But if you’re a sucker for overbuilt gear or an occasional smoker who enjoys the simplicity of an auto-feed pellet smoker and would like to flame-broil steaks and make pizzas on the same grill, the Yoder 640S is unmatched.
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