Though Taiwan has the largest collection of chili varieties in the world, the country lacks a large community of chili-lovers, dearclarissa writes. But this aversion has also isolated the island—and its chilis—from disease and other yield risks.
, water scarcity, and biodiversity loss could reduce yields by a third by 2050; diseases like anthracnose, which likes hot and humid conditions, are expected to spread as average temperatures rise. Of the eleven hundred vegetable species that are recognized worldwide, about a quarter are in particular danger because they are not preserved in seed vaults.
Lin showed me royal-purple peppers, chocolate-hued habaneros, and miniature white chilies. Some were bell-shaped and others looked like tiny, glossy pumpkins; some smelled of green-apple candy and others had a distinct floral kick. One canary-yellow pepper, roughly the size of a pearl, was named the tepín, after the Aztec word for “flea.” Lin told me that it would blow out my taste buds, and she was right.
Taiwan did not set out to train an élite team of pepper breeders. “Initially, they just wanted to have the world’s largest collection of mung beans,” Angel Jeng, the W.V.C.’s social-outreach coördinator, said when we met in April. After the technological innovations of the Green Revolution increased crop yields around the world, the U.S.
“I follow Derek in the field and taste a lot of chili,” Lin agreed. “I’m learning how to appreciate spicy food.” In April, the W.V.C. hosted horticulturalists from Latin America and the Caribbean for a two-week plant-breeding workshop, which was funded by Taiwan’s Ministry of Foreign Affairs. Most of the attendees came from the minority of countries that have diplomatic relations with Taiwan: Belize, Guatemala, Haiti, Paraguay, Saint Kitts and Nevis. One afternoon, the participants toured the giant walk-in refrigerator that serves as the center’s gene bank.
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