Loewe and The Row point to a new surrealist turn in luxury fashion.
Whether you like what Jonathan Anderson is doing at Loewe or not, it’s probably the most important thing happening in luxury fashion right now. Last season, you may recall, the designer took an abrupt turn and made jersey dresses fronted with enormous round metal plates, gowns that pointed outward at nutjob angles, pumps with smashed eggs on the heel, and a swooping shoulder cape over draped tumbles of fabric, like a slutty pope was charging through some temple of ideas.
For someone who has been so obsessive, even tortured about the meaning of what he does, and pretty respectful of the mystique attached to the word “luxury,” it is a significant turn. And that, along with a handful of other shows this season, has made me think we’re entering a new phase of luxury: the luxury bizarro.
The collection that Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen showed on Wednesday was downright weird: skinny sweaters with the impossibly long sleeves of a recluse; shirting with enormous collars; and old lady handbags with little napkins draped overtop. As at Loewe, the classic bustier dress–maybe the most conservative silhouette in all of menswear, reducing a woman to a sort of busty but sexless mermaid–got the supernatural treatment, with a stormy cloud of fabric at the bust.
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