For years, Gold Club's storied $5 lunch buffet fed San Francisco’s working class crowds and white collar elites, quickly becoming a word-of-mouth phenomenon.
Save for the royal blue lighting and cursive gold sign, the nondescript gentleman’s club could easily get lost in SOMA’s dark, unlit landscape. After all, management says, it’s the type of place where people go to become invisible. But against these odds, that’s exactly where my boyfriend and I end up on a cold February night.
We’re not just here for the live entertainment though — we’re here for the club’s legendary fried chicken. For years, its storied $5 lunch buffet fed San Francisco’s working class crowds and white collar elites, quickly becoming a word-of-mouth phenomenon. I wasn’t expecting to break nearly 10 years of vegetarianism at a strip club with three and a half stars on Yelp this winter, but I suppose God just works in mysterious ways.
When we arrive around 8:30 p.m, a young security guard with a plastic earpiece escorts us inside, much like a host at Sunday brunch. After we pay the $25 cover, he seats us at a candle-lit table facing the stage, where a tall, lithe woman in 6-inch Pleasers pole-dances to R&B. In many ways, I feel like I’m at a casino or maybe even a cruise ship, except there are naked women everywhere. Some prowl across the stage like panthers; others spread their limbs like petals to the sun. To our left, a performer glides down the pole with ethereal grace while another gets showered in cash.The"legendary" fried chicken at the Gold Club, located on Howard Street in downtown San Francisco. The buffet was suspended during the Covid pandemic but is expected to return.
My Southern boyfriend’s medium-rare burger isn’t playing around either. It’s rich and simmering in fat — the chef went light on the sauce, but he believes this was a deliberate power move, since the meat speaks for itself. The dish “sang,” as he likes to say.
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