On the second season of “The Bear,” FX’s breakout restaurant drama, each character gets a moment to shine. But few seize it with quite such abandon as Richie. As played by Ebon Moss-Bachrach, Richi…
,” FX’s breakout restaurant drama, each character gets a moment to shine. But few seize it with quite such abandon as Richie., Richie spent much of the first season at top volume and vein-popping intensity, perennially there to remind Carmy of the chaos in the restaurant’s kitchen, and to add to it. Which makes him an unlikely candidate to train, for a period, at a true fine-dining restaurant, but so he does.
As a critic and a consumer of food-related content, I’ve grown a bit allergic to the language of positivity that has lately sprung up around dining culture in shows like “Taste the Nation” — the concept that no matter who we are or where we come from, when we sit around the table, we all come together, and so on. As a dish, “The Bear’s” second season is fairly well-balanced, but could use, in moments, a touch more acid.
The scene in which Richie serves the pizza comes as a small, earned reward for a character who’s been through it, and provides intriguing grit and texture, too: Playing the role of a server at the finest restaurant there is, Richie’s slinging pizza and cutting it up with the patrons. Haute cuisine is changing Richie, but, if only in moments, Richie may be doing the reverse, too.
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