Banana leaf gives suman—a steamed sticky rice cake—a distinct tinge of green and imparts a floral fragrance. Serve it with a generous sprinkle of muscovado sugar or a side of sweet ripe mango.
Soaking the rice overnight helps develop to a softer, fluffier texture and reduces the overall cooking time.
Wrapping and steaming the suman in banana leaves imparts a distinct floral flavor that adds complexity.Growing up in the Philippines, I was often woken from my siesta by the rhythmic chanting of street vendors, whose voices echoed through the empty sweltering streets in the late afternoon. This is how I knew it was time for merienda, otherwise known as a meal in between meals or, you know, snack time.
In pre-colonial Philippines, growing rice was labor-intensive and rice was therefore largely reserved for deities, leaders, and socio-religious rituals and gatherings like harvest ceremonies or honoring ancestors.
After the initial cooking of the rice, it's spread out to cool, then cut into portions and wrapped in the banana leaves, which then get cooked again—an essential two-stage cooking process that gives the finished suman its signature sticky texture. There are multiple ways to cook the assembled suman packets, but the primary one is to steam them. When setting up your steamer, make sure you always have enough water at the bottom and check in between batches and refill as needed.
If you’re adding additional water to prevent the steamer from going dry, make sure to get it up to boiling first so that you don't drop the temperature and cut the steam off midway through cooking.Once the suman is steamed, give it a couple of minutes to cool down before opening the banana leaf wrapper, but not long enough that it's gone cold. It needs to have enough residual heat to slowly melt the topping of muscovado sugar, and also to provide a contrast with the cool mango.
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