Simmered with garlic and drizzled with smoky paprika oil, pollo en salsa de almendras is one of Iberia’s great unsung comfort foods:
, what have you—but improved upon a number of them. One such María Ángeles revamp was pollo en salsa de almendras , an Andalusian stew that, when done right, evokes the heady flavors of Moorish Spain: saffron, garlic, oregano, parsley.
But Spanish restaurants and tapas bars often cut corners when making the dish. They’ll nix the expensive saffron, adding food coloring instead, or skimp on the in favor of bland Californian nuts. It’s a recipe for mediocrity that results in a thin, gruel-like sauce with neither spice nor soul. Not so my host mom’s version, which adds white wine for depth and sherry vinegar for tang.
While the chicken and aromatics in this recipe come straight from María Ángeles’ scratchpad, the pimentón oil is all me—without it, the dish goes straight to Brown Food jail. I’m all for dressing food down, but here, the crimson drizzle adds not only color but a campfire-y smokiness that knits the flavors together. Andalusian abuelas may wag their fingers at María Ángeles and me, but as M.F.K.
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