Daily News | Roxanne is one of Philly’s hot new restaurants. It’s more interesting than delicious.
leading the way. Roxanne is edgier and more experimental, in part, because Holt views it as an “art exhibit and statement piece” where she relishes doing all the prep, pot-washing and cooking herself. And in the solitude of her creative space, she can work through the process of grieving for an older sister who died and “creating the happiness I need to keep going.”
Her focus on the plate has been to reject traditional perceptions of beauty with a relentless gush of iSi foams that obscure her creations with thick waves of sauce, to the point she declared on Instagram after my first meal: “We are a blob restaurant.” The Culinary Institute of America-trained pastry chef spent the early part of her career gilding plates with the flourishes of fussy dots, swirls and quenelles as she interned at Alinea in Chicago for six months and worked at the Ivy Hotel’s Magdalena in Baltimore on the way to her Michelin-starred perch in Germany.
Too often, though, the compositions hiding under the sauces did not deliver enough flavor impact or textural contrasts to reward the hunt. The orange-on-brown splatters of pureed carrot and black bean sauces covered chunks of pork jowl that had none of the unctuous softness of slow-cooked meat. They were instead crunchy bits that lodged in my teeth as they delivered a sodium overload.
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