Review: Chef Carlos Delgado delivers a double-dose of superb Peruvian cooking at Amazonia and Causa in Blagden Alley.
, the common thread was a shared sense of purpose among restaurants that rolled out during the pandemic.
Here’s what I love about the fine dining: Once a parade of exquisite small bites are cleared at Causa, Delgado makes it his mission to spend as much time as possible with his audience. Here he is, adding liquid nitrogen to yellowtail and sweet potato, a sparkling ceviche .
Dishes you can’t source anywhere else — duck “four ways” comes to mind — turn any night into a celebration. The spectacle is fired to order and takes 45 minutes to get to the table. Patience is rewarded by a platter of sliced, smoked, five-spiced duck, plus a ginger-spiked broth and a phyllo-swaddled pie stuffed with forbidden rice and shredded duck confit.
New to the script: lunch hours, and the possibility of couscous bowls and “handhelds” — lavash wraps stuffed with a choice of chicken shawarma, falafel with pickled eggplant or juice-spurting beef-and-lamb kofta with melted feta cheese, tomato and the spark of pickled onions. Any wrap is better with a fistful of sumac-flavored pita chips.
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