RandomIdentities spring 2024 menswear collection is here. See every look:
Stefano Pilati is much admired for his talent and his innate sprezzatura. A sort of punk heir to Robert de Montesquiou, Pilati walked the runway at Louis Vuitton and showed up in Anonymous Club’s lookbook; he also makes a ghost appearance in his own press materials for Random Identities.
“Frankly, a lot of people relate to the way that I put together the clothes. So it’s me trying the collection on basically and having someone take a picture. I didn’t want to be in it, but I wanted to give the right attitude to the clothes,” the designer explained on a call. Pilati’s face and appendages are silhouetted out of these images , but his gestures animate the clothes. There are even suggestions for accessorizing; he has a taste for sparkly chandelier earrings.
Frivolity ill-fits the mood of the time, making the idea of getting back to essentials fitting. That approach is foundational to Random Identities. A mission- and clothes-driven label, it’s niche by design—quiet and oh so seductive. Take the first look. A car coat in a technical fabric that drapes beautifully, it looks classic but feels a bit different. That’s because, the designer says, “everything is raised up so it looks like the pockets are a bit too high, and there are only three buttons.
In keeping with their ski wear inspiration, a pair of gray trousers with black geometric insets has a sturdy, crisp feeling, but overall there is a soft, pajama-like ease to the collection. Of note are a pair of pleated, creased, and tapered pistachio-colored pants in a poly-silk cady material that break away from the expected.
Pilati works with deadstock and doesn’t create large collections. Based in Berlin, he’s living, and working, slightly outside of the fashion system. While his clothes are designed for anyone who wants to wear them, exploring various aspects of queerness is one of his missions. While creating this collection, he was studying the history of the culture, and the stills in some of the backgrounds are pulled from the documentaries he watched.
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