Forget Machu Picchu and head instead to this hidden gem in Peru, where you’re unlikely to cross paths with many other tourists.
It was Torres del Paine in Patagonia, the Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia, and the Galapagos Islands in Ecuador which topped my backpacking year’s highlights, but I wanted to be gobsmacked by Machu Picchu too.
As for ruins, the Pumamarca ruins Gutierrez and I had explored the day before were more my speed. Accessed just off the Las Qolqas property, the 13.4 km moderate trek, rope-free and free of charge too, is one of the Sacred Valley activities Carlos Gonzalez, co-owner of Las Qolqas, recommends.
When I was on the backpacking circuit years ago, I was content, if unimpressed, with my stays at inexpensive inns and hostels, where all I really needed was a bed and decent night’s sleep before the next day’s adventure, but at Las Qolqas, I had the opportunity to really relish that night’s sleep, thanks to a quietly roaring wood-burning fireplace prepared by a staff member each night, and a large, cozy bed that took up most of the space in the African safari-like raised tent.
Like both the Pumamarca ruins and the town’s eponymous ruins, both of which can be easily accessed without any fuss or advance reservations, Machu Picchu can be explored without the help of a guide. But Gonzalez, who has been visiting the 15th-century Inca City since he was a little boy, believes most visitors will benefit from going with a guide. Even so, Gonzalez told me most guests of Las Qolqas admit Machu Picchu isn’t the best part of their visit to Peru.
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