The 3,000 square-foot restaurant at 8 West 40th St. is set to open Wednesday.
A new challenger in the Big Apple’s neverending pizza wars is not only making its own pies, breads and pastas — but also grinding up artisanal, “ancient” grains to make the flour that goes into them, Side Dish has learned.
Ramirez partnered with Luc Boulet, a fourth-generation bread artisan from France, and Alex Garese, founder of the Wolkonsky Bakery chain in Russia and Ukraine to open Heritage Grand Bakery last December. “Ancient grains make everything so much fresher, unadulterated, with no additives. “They are not genetically modified and have only two or three chromosones — compared to others that have 23 to 25 chromosones,” Ramirez said.
“Ancient grains are very different from multi-purpose flour. It’s very difficult to work with. Unlike flour you get from big mills that has been fortified and has different additives, these grains are different every time, depending on the soil and climate and weather, so we are constantly tweaking the recipes to create great breads,” Ramirez said.
The milling is done in a closed off room — as it is noisy and messy — that is partly visible from the bakery. The metal, wood and stone machine is over 5 feet tall and the stones are about 18 inches in diameter. The machine shakes the grains, which fall into a funnel tube and the stones separates the grains, resulting in flour that is then sifted.
“We get the stocks, the seeds, and we mill on site. It’s very specific and sustainable, with no pesticides. Other crops are grown around the fields to keep the insects away,” Ramirez said.The restaurant and pizza bar will have room for 120 people, plus 60 additional seats in a private dining room.While milling on site is not yet a trend, Heritage Grand Bakery is in good company. Micheline-starred chef Ignacio Mattos is also using the age-old technique at Rockefeller Center’s Lodi.
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