How do celebrities score a table at Brooklyn's famed Lucali Pizza? “They don’t,” says owner Mark Iacono. “They get in line.” 🍕
, who recently celebrated her birthday at the now 16-year-old Carroll Gardens landmark. And on a quiet afternoon before the dinner rush, over hunks of spaghetti pie and a few cigarettes, Iacono spoke to me about Lucali’s new Miami outpost, resisting the temptation to monetize, and how celebrities score a seat at his perennially busy restaurant. “They don’t,” he said sharply, like a true New Yorker. “They get in line.”LEDONNE: So, set the stage for me. I walk into Lucali on a busy night.
IACONO: You know, I stand back there and I wonder, “Why? Why is it like this? And I kept questioning, “Is my pizza really that good?”that good. I think as a whole, prior to the place blowing up, once the word got out before all of the movie stars started coming in, it has a lot to do with—I don’t get excited when someone comes here, but I get excited when they come back. People have been coming once a week pretty much since day one.
LEDONNE: When you think about all of the pizza places in New York and the world, for a pizza place in Carroll Gardens to have the reputation this one has…LEDONNE: You’re a food personality without a TV show or a podcast. And I don’t think you’ve written a book.LEDONNE: So to have your reputation, it really speaks to the unique quality Lucali has.
IACONO: That took awhile. It’s just me back there making pizzas with an ignorance and lack of knowledge of the industry. I got a write-up in thebecause that’s the paper I read, the paper I grew up on. It goes back to the blue-collar neighborhood this used to be. I remember as a kid, at the candy shop I worked at, I used to have to put the Sunday papers together. There were 250 newspapers and it was theIACONO: The build-out was a passion. I wanted to open up my own business.
LEDONNE: Are a lot of people knocking on your door, saying let’s do this or that, let’s do a line of frozen pizzas?IACONO: No. I think it’s just a question of finding the right person to do it with. There are people, for the most part, whose intentions are not good. And I experienced that personally. I wasn’t honed for this. I just jumped right in.IACONO: Yeah, it was a baptism by fire. I like it. That sounds good. Even my waitresses are super green to it.
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