Chicago was once the epicenter of candy bar empires. In response, in 1941, a federal agency bestowed upon Chicago the title of “Candy Capital of the United States.”
The impending demise of the Mars chocolate factoryBuilt on the West Side by the candy magnate Frank Mars, the structure’s Spanish Renaissance architecture belies its purpose. “A casual passerby who didn’t know what it was probably would think it a fashionable club or some important institution — never a factory,” a Tribune reporter noted in 1953.In fact, for almost a century, it has churned out the Milky Way bars that made Mars wealthy and brought fame to his adopted hometown.
Around 1909, with her husband out of work, Ora Snyder made a batch of candy and sold it to a school store. By 1941, she had 22 candy stores and a seven-story factory at 119 N. Wabash Ave. Following Hershey’s lead, Chicago’s candy-makers began “conching,” as it was called, because the prototype machine vaguely resembled a conch shell. By 1941, Chicago was producing half of all the candy bars Americans bit into, the WPA reported.
It quoted a perhaps apocryphal salesperson: “Offering Cracker Jack for sale is like baiting a hook. When the fish bite they’re caught. When people bite Cracker Jack they, too, are caught.” Mars bought Wrigley in 2008, giving Chicagoans the willies about what might happen to Wrigley Field — even though Wrigley hadn’t owned the Cubs in many years — and the Wrigley Building. Would Mars rename them?
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