Mapo tofu, meet Japanese ramen. Spicy Sichuan peppercorns, soft tofu, and chewy noodles make for a powerhouse of flavor and texture:
scallions, white part only, thinly sliced crosswiseCut the legs from the chickens. Pull off the skin that covers the breasts, then cut the breasts from the carcasses. Cover and refrigerate 2 breasts for the ramen. Cover and refrigerate or freeze the remaining 2 breasts and the legs for another use.
Place the onion quarters down the center on top of the carcasses. Add the water. Bring to a simmer uncovered over medium-high heat watching closely and reducing heat to maintain a simmer, skimming off any scum as soon as it forms at the top of the stock. Do not let it come to a boil. Continue to simmer, skimming the stock as needed and maintaining the heat to ensure it simmers and does not boil. Try not to agitate the stock to keep it clear.
Peel off the outer charred layer from the leek and add to the stock. Add the cabbage, mushrooms, katsuobushi, if using, Parmesan rind, ginger, and rock sugar. Simmer the stock, covered with the lid slightly ajar, until the stock is golden and aromatic, 2 to 4 more hours.In a small pot, add the chicken breasts and enough chicken stock to cover. Bring to barely a simmer over medium-low and poach the chicken until just cooked through, 10 to 20 minutes. Cut the chicken into 3/4 inch cubes.
In a mortar and pestle, coarsely grind the Sichuan peppercorns, cumin, star anise, and cloves. In a small skillet, heat the chicken fat over medium heat. Add the onion and cook, stirring often, until deep golden brown, about 5 minutes. Spoon 2 tablespoons of the onion oil into a large pot and heat it until it shimmers. Add the garlic to the pot and stir fry until translucent, just a few seconds. Add the chile and cook, stirring often, until aromatic, about 2 minutes.
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