In Tunisia, partiers and laborers line up during the pre-dawn hours for the same thing - steaming bowls of lablabi, a hearty soup of chickpeas and stale baguette that tastes so much better than it sounds.
For an older generation, lablabi is hot breakfast. For a younger, it is late-night, after-club grub. Like so many of the world’s soups, it was born to use the bits and scraps a kitchen naturally produces.
Our version of this brothy-bready soup gets punches of flavor from garlic, tomato paste and toasted cumin, but a defining ingredient is harissa. The North African red pepper paste packs both heat and a range of spices, adding complexity that ties all the flavors together. Stir in 2 tablespoons of the cumin and the harissa and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Add the chickpeas, the reserved liquid and the broth. Stir to combine, then bring to a boil over high. Reduce to medium and simmer, uncovered, until the flavors have melded, about 30 minutes.
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