.Kenzo's spring 2023 collection has arrived. See every look here:
This sophomore collection by Nigo for Kenzo marked a double graduation. The first was that—as he observed via his trusty translator Toby, post-show—Nigo is increasingly finding the levels and detail of denim and workwear production here much more aligned with his expectations as a connoisseur, thanks to evolution within Kenzo. Said Toby: “He’s got access to the fabrics he wants.
Secondly, a graduation is what this show was staged to remind us of. Nigo said he’d used the concept of a passing out ceremony—inspired by a 1980s show by Kenzo Takada based on a sports day—in order to present an otherwise diverse group of dressed characters under the same banner: this was Kenzo’s class of ’23.
Nigo is still understandably steeping himself in the archive of the house’s founder. Waistcoats came patched with an array of long-defunct labels—including for Kenzo Jeans and Jungle—that were reproductions of original Takada-era graphic designs. Similarly the patched naif animalia pieces were based on an archive design.
Although this was a continuation of last season’s collection—in honor of Takada’s own annual cycle—a new interjection was the armada of naval inspired pieces. As well as literal-ish sailor wear, the maritime scarf was ingeniously integrated into the house’s revived tailoring as jacket lapels.
Justin Timberlake and Jessica Biel, Jaden Smith and Ghali were among the latest crop of stars here to see Nigo’s work for themselves. In what I counted as his third show of the menswear week, Alexandre Arnault was here too, wearing sturdy New Balance 911s like all pro show attendees do.
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