Ju Qi, in Flushing, Queens, showcases the cultural history of Beijing with dishes both traditional and theatrical.
The other night, as some friends and I left dinner at Ju Qi, in a new luxury mall called Tangram, in Flushing, we passed a group of patrons in the foyer behaving like kids in a candy store, literally, raiding bowls of complimentary treats with glee.
As you scroll through the handsomely photographed digital menu, on an oversized tablet, dense with offal and intriguing sea creatures, some items may stop you in your tracks. Chief among them is the mashed potato in the shape of Lord Rabbit , a totem of Beijing traditionally used for worship and often seen in decoration, as a symbol of happiness.
For dessert, there’s a gorgeous mah-jongg board with trompe-l’oeil pieces made from yellow-pea paste. It’s as much of a stunt as Ju Qi’s late-night shift to a limited menu of much spicier dishes—available until 5seven days a week—and as the restaurant’s custom of marking birthdays with parchment scrolls foretelling good fortune, quill-written and presented to celebrants by a staffer wearing Qing-dynasty garb.
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