Is ‘Jiro Dreams of Sushi’ Responsible for the American Omakase Boom?

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Is ‘Jiro Dreams of Sushi’ Responsible for the American Omakase Boom?
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A decade into the 'Jiro' era, how omakase has become both a rarified experience — and one that’s rife for future experimentation

have become the norm. The omakase experience at LA’s Sushi Ginza Onodera is $400; at Morihiro Onodera, $350 to $400 depending on the night’s offerings; at Mujo, $205. All of these menus include add-ons and beverage pairings that can continue to jack up the price.didn’t just introduce an unfamiliar cuisine to most Americans; it also redefined what kind of dining is worthy of occasion, a fundamental rearranging in many minds of how a restaurant interaction should look.

To be a foodie, or whatever word you want to use for it, is to trade in cultural capital. What media likeand the shows, books, and blogs that came out at the same time showcased was food as experience, that a good vacation could be measured by what you ate, and that these were treasures worth planning around the same way you would the world’s great monuments.

According to multiple chefs, those prices will only rise: Fish is getting more expensive and harder to find , and staff need to be paid a living wage. But also, menu prices need to stay competitive. The film not only normalized the idea that sushibe exclusive and expensive, but that cost and rarity was a harbinger of quality and not the other way around. Sushi counters became the new steakhouses.

In 2021, the team behind Sushi Noz opened Noz 17, a more experimental restaurant steeped in Edomae style. Instead of $400 for the traditional 10 to 15 courses of nigiri, the menu consists of 30 courses for the same price, focused on seasonal produce and a mix of sushi, sashimi, and nigiri.

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