The scene: You're making grandma's famous christmascookies🍪. The recipe calls for 'baking powder,' but you only have 'baking soda' in the pantry. Does it matter? The answer is more nuanced than you might think.
Baking soda puts life in your baked goods because of the chemical reaction it undergoes when mixed with acidic ingredients. On the pH scale, a spectrum that measures how basic or acidic a compound is, sodium bicarbonate qualifies as a base. When compounds on opposite ends of the pH scale — an acid and a base — come together, they react and release carbon dioxide gas.
Furthermore, baking powder can get more elaborate and be double-acting, a label you’ve likely seen on some cans. This formula marries the sodium bicarbonate with two kinds of acids — one that activates when mixed into the batter, and one that kicks off gas production only when exposed to heat. That said, baking soda comes with some benefits, too. It can impart crispiness and a rich, dark color that's appealing in cookies, Reid says. This leavening agent works particularly well with brown sugar, since the molasses provides the acid it needs to activate. Reid says the alkaline taste of baking powder — which some people interpret as saltiness — is even desirable in some cases.
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