Accomplished L.A. pastry chef Sahar Shomali yearned for the Iranian breads she grew up with — so she re-created them.
In 2018, pastry chef Sahar Shomali was between restaurant jobs — she’d concluded career-making stints at Spago and Lucques and would soon be making desserts at Hearth & Hound — when she was gripped by an idea for a side project. She began teaching herself to master barbari , the oblong, chewy-crackery flatbread that is ever-present at Iranian meals.; Southern California is home to the largest population of Iranians outside of Iran.
’”She tinkered with recipes and techniques until the results matched her memory — a medium-thick, modestly sized flatbread, covered in black and white sesame seeds, with low hills and valleys across its surface. It had a pronounced crispness and a direct but delicate tang to the flavor.When Hearth & Hound closed in 2019, though, Shomali began researching to expand her repertoire. She remembered filled breads she’d eaten with her relatives in far-western Iran near the Turkish border.
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