Mushrooms, miso, and other savory ingredients are finding their way into cocktails.
Hungry Eyes in New Orleans
, the new restaurant from the team behind Turkey and the Wolf that serves playful food of all inspirations in an ’80s-designed space. The Robert is a mix of sherry, cognac, and “mushroom.” I didn’t know what to expect — a garnish? A truffle shaving? — but the cocktail came, the color of hay with a light foam on top, with no sign of visible mushroom.
The drink took me back a decade, when my grandma’s rich, artsy, Hamptons-house owning friend gave me my first. I did not think I would like it. I stood in her penthouse kitchen, watching her pour Swanson broth from a can over a shot of vodka, and told myself I had to be polite. But one sip and the drink was undeniable. The vodka cut through the richness of the beef broth that would have otherwise felt like too much, leaving pure, smooth umami in its wake.
Cocktails have always played with the salty and savory, whether it’s the brine in a dirty martini or the mix of tomato and horseradish in a Bloody Mary, which has become a canvas for some of the most . But bars and restaurants across the country, as well as creators on social media, are increasingly offering hyper-savory cocktails, like Willy Wonka’s three-course dinner chewing gum in drinkable form.
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