It’s clear that The City’s recovery remains uneven. The Embarcadero teems with tourists and traffic regularly backs up to the Bay Bridge, while SoMa is a ghost town of new glistening towers and cold empty sidewalks.
I chuckle when I think about the latest screed about San Francisco being a failed city. It’s typically when I’m pushing my way onto a crowded N-Judah, lining up at a BART escalator or struggling from stall to stall at the Ferry Building.But it’s clear that The City’s recovery remains uneven. The Embarcadero teems with tourists and traffic regularly backs up to the Bay Bridge, while SoMa is a ghost town of new glistening towers and cold empty sidewalks.
La Mar, the Peruvian ceviche destination on the Embarcadero, had a banner year, according to Thomas Medl, director of operations at Acurio International, the restaurant group. Sales were up 35%. He noticed the pace of diners change over the course of the year: In the beginning, people seemed to gather for languorous celebrations. Toward the end of the year, things got more businesslike, and La Mar put out a revised menu suited for faster meals.
Outsiders might paint The City with a broad brush, but to really understand how things are bouncing back, you have to get specific. I asked Cushman & Wakefield, the commercial real estate brokerage, for a breakdown of office vacancies by district. During the pandemic, Acurio was scouting a location for a ghost kitchen to handle delivery orders for La Mar. But Medl said, when he saw the built-in charcoal grill in a space in the Marina, they got the idea for a Peruvian rotisserie restaurant. La Jaranita opened on Steiner Street in early 2021 and seems to be thriving on local traffic.
I remember South Park being a mostly desolate hangout when I worked in the neighborhood in the 1990s. Startups were forming around there, not because it was trendy but because space was cheap and available. Only later did the brick-and-timber look — left over from the area’s roots as a warehouse district — become a thing.
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