Two brothers create a totally unique Syrian-Circassian culinary experience at Nawal, their weekend backyard pop-up
Looking down at a bowl of fatteh at Nawal, a weekend pop-up in Solano Canyon near Dodger Stadium, the carefully sectioned ingredients look as if they’re poised to begin whirling. The color palette isn’t too far off from the spinning pinwheel that can appear on Mac screens.
A spread of dishes from Nawal’s backyard pop-up surrounds a bowl of fatteh: clockwise from top left, labneh crisp with soujouk, ful, soujouk wrap and ful medames. There’s also a wrap, folded around blistered Armenian lavash, that the brothers will readily concede was created out of things they might pull from their mother’s refrigerator and throw together as a snack. Slices of soujouk, a small hunk of fried halloumi, tomatoes, pickled turnips and peppers peek out of one end. It’s earthy, spicy and gone in seven or eight bites.
Most Circassians resettled across the Ottoman Empire; Armbay and Dotee’s parents were among those who settled in Golan Heights, a hilly tract of land in far southwestern Syria. The Circassians established villages where they were able to retain their cultural customs for nearly a century. In 1967, during the Six-Day War, Golan Heights came under Israeli military occupation.
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