Beyond the glitz and glamour, St. Barts' coastal hiking trails are an adventure waiting to happen.
After a while, the path opens up again, this time facing a near-empty expanse of sandy scrubland, a few windswept shrubs the only shelter. From there it’s a short, precipitous trek down to a private white-sand beach—and the ultimate prize. The only evidence of humans here is a hulking mansion, seemingly unoccupied; it was once thehideaway of David Rockefeller. Still, the sands aren’t fenced off for the mansion’s occupants only; anyone can wander into the shallow waters.
No wonder that the presence of nature, and the prominence of outdoor life among the locals, is something that only frequent visitors tend to notice, says Fabrice Moizan, who runs Eden Rock, the isle’s splashiest, oldest hotel. “Seventy percent of the island is a green zone, which means it’s non-buildable, so you have so many areas where you can be inspired by nature,” he explains.
The raffish de Haenen—who, despite several stints in prison for smuggling, won election as mayor of the island—gathered a glamorous pack of friends to come enjoy his hospitality here: Howard Hughes, Greta Garbo, and Lee Radziwill all arrived at his invitation. This was a hideaway where such A-listers could idle, in private, ambling along an empty beach or hiking up to a raw clifftop, the original barefoot luxury.
Grand Fond, another coastal hike, is a cinch for even the laziest. The two-mile flower-lined trail along the island’s northeastern coast has spectacular views of the surfers catching a wave or two in the rough seas; afterward, cool off at the natural pools before heading back. “It feels like you could be in Scotland—well, Scotland on a warm day,” says hotelier Moizan with a laugh. “It’s so rocky, and you can feel the wind from the Atlantic.
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