The umami powerhouse gives many Asian dishes their signature taste
, a restaurant in Selangor, Malaysia. “My great-grandmother is a Malaysian descendant of the Portuguese settlers, the Kristang,” Batalha says. When the Kristang went to Macau, she explains, they took foods like coconut and belacan with them “because Macau didn’t have those ingredients.
This process is the building block for fermented shrimp across the region, with some variations. In certain parts of inland Java, the northern islands of the Philippines, and the northern regions of Thailand and Myanmar, people may incorporate small fishes into the fermentation process, depending on what is available in the area. “Upper Myanmar uses sweeter freshwater fish trawled from the Irrawaddy River, which runs through the whole country,” said MiMi Aye, the author ofover email.
Another relatively easy option is to combine a small dollop with lime juice, bird’s eye chile, garlic, and palm sugar to make a Thai dipping sauce for vegetable stir-fry dishes or fried rice. This is also a common use for ngapi in Myanmar, where it is simmered with chiles and garlic to make a dipping sauce called ngapi yay and eaten with vegetables.
In Macau, balichão is used to make hearty, savory dishes such as porco balichão tamarinho, a braised pork dish with tamarind. “You can put a teaspoon of fermented shrimp in the braising liquid for any kind of meat,” Halvorsen says. “It’s like how we cook anchovies with lamb shanks. Same thing! Just remember that the shrimp paste is already salty so you have to use less salt than usual.”
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