The corned beef egg roll is becoming a fixture on more and more menus in Detroit. What will it take for this obscure local delicacy to become known outside its homeland?
Each afternoon, 30 mammoth hunks of Sy Ginsberg–brand pickled beef brisket are boiled, then lined up for slicing in Bread Basket Deli kitchens across metro Detroit. For those who don’t toil in the cured-meat trade, the 12-pound pink and tan slabs filling up the kitchens are an impressive sight. Bread Basket owner Al Winkler burns through a lot of brisket—around 24,000 pounds weekly, which he says is more than any one restaurant in the nation.
In fact, the corned beef egg roll is generating enough buzz in different corners of Detroit’s food world that there’s reason to believe we might be witnessing the birth of the metro Detroit area’s next great dish.
Because of their size, Mr. Fo-Fo’s didn't label them "egg rolls"—instead, they were called "fried grinders" or sandwiches, because "that’s more what they are," Mr. Lee’s son, Keith, explained.Mr. Lee nearly shouted when I asked if the corned beef egg roll could be southeast Michigan’s next staple. "As big as the coney dog! It will be up there and beyond, no doubt about it, no question about it! This is big stuff.
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