The top honors at Monday night’s James Beard awards — the most prestigious in the United States’ food industry — went to a chef whose elegant cuisine doesn’t include a bit of meat or poultry or a drop of heavy cream.
in the Shaw neighborhood, took home the title of “outstanding chef,” an accolade that adds more luster to his acclaimed cooking: Oyster Oyster earned the No. 1 slot in Post food critic Tom Sietsema’s 2021 dining guide and in the same year was given a Michelin star.Rubba, 41, said the recognition is validation of his approach — which initially had prompted “tilted heads” among his industry peers and some potential investors to tell him “I was out of my mind.
Rubba hopes the award — which has previously gone to luminaries such as Tom Colicchio, José Andrés and Suzanne Goin — will show other restaurateurs what’s possible, even when so many of the traditional hallmarks of fining dining are off the menu. “It makes me want to keep focused and inspire others to do this,” he said. “I hope the thing I got recognized for is no longer novel a few years from now.
, where he was known for elaborate duck-themed tasting menus, citrus-glazed ribs and foie gras-accented zucchini bread.and sausage dishes at Hazel as part of what he calls a later-in-life conversion. It began, he said, when he started scrutinizing the restaurant’s deliveries. “I was looking at the all this product coming into the kitchen, and I started to do the math,” he said. “It wasn’t sustainable, it wasn’t humane — and I knew I needed to make a change, and not just for myself.
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