The book offers a vivid portrait of midcentury regional cooking and a glimpse of its proudly idiosyncratic author
she was able to afford on her newspaper salary. Her grasp of navigation equipment was shaky, so she liked to fly close enough to the ground that she could follow the roads. Once she arrived in a new town, the hunt would begin. By her own account, she was relentless and also shameless in her pursuit of recipes.
Alas, not much remains of Paddleford’s physical presence. Even though the first golden age of television was in full swing during her reign at the, Paddleford refused to make any appearances on screen, or on the radio. She’d suffered a bout of throat cancer in her early 30s which left her with only part of her larynx, a permanent breathing tube, and a distinctive raspy — some said “eerie” — voice.
“Clementine Paddleford would not have been able to distinguish skillfully scrambled eggs from a third-rate omelet,” claimed Craig Claiborne, her rival at the. But this was untrue. Paddleford knew how to eat. She just wasn’t a home economist like many of the other female food editors at the time. She was a reporter who had discovered very early in her career that a woman’s place in the newspaper was in the women’s pages, and had, by all appearances, made her peace with it.
“Ira Aldrich was a ghost shadow in the steam, skimming the foam. Laughter and talk, rattle of spoon against cup, while the bubbling frothing syrup made a music quite its own:She takes care to maintain an impersonally personal tone. She mentions no regular traveling companions or friends back home, has no in-jokes with her readers, shares no personal anecdotes. When she says “I” in her dispatches, she’s not specifically Clementine Paddleford,food editor.
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