In a country synonymous with fried potatoes, chickpea fries might seem an unusual crowd favorite, but the legume is emblematic of southeastern France and best enjoyed fried, hot, and salty.
Tucked in France’s Italianate southeastern nook, Nice passes the summer in a floaty haze. In the morning, colorful markets are piled high with fragrant locally grown produce, friendly pétanque matches break out in the afternoon sun, glasses of crisp pale-pink Provençal rosé slip from hand to hand when it’s time for aperitifs.
In a country synonymous with fried potatoes, a chickpea dish might seem an unusual crowd favorite. But the protein-packed legume, “lou cèe” in the Niçois dialect, is the emblematic ingredient of southeastern France. The chickpea’s ability to thrive in the poor, water-deprived soils of the Mediterranean basin has made it a staple in the local diet. And — like nearly every other ingredient — it’s best enjoyed fried, hot, salty, and without an implement in sight.
more than you would a fry made from potatoes,” Loubert says, explaining he seasons his panisse with cumin, thyme, garlic, salt, and pepper.
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