Arroz chaufa was born when 19th-century Chinese indentured servants needed to make quick meals with available ingredients. Now it’s part of Peru’s identity.
Chaufa with chicken from Tigo's Peruvian Express in Washington. In Peru, it is said that any self-respecting Peruvian will have an Inca Kola, a popular soft drink, with their arroz chaufa. The combination represents a fusion inherent to the country’s cuisine, whose diversity is bolstered by a centuries-long history of migration.A fried rice dish, chaufa’s roots stretch back to waves of Chinese migration to Peru in the 19th century. With them came their culinary traditions.
, a restaurant she created alongside her brother, designer Humberto Leon; her husband, John Liu; and her mother, Wendy Leon. The Los Angeles restaurant offers a modernized take on traditional chifa dishes.Chaufa is easy to prepare: All you need is rice , eggs, soy or oyster sauce, some vegetables and some sort of mix-in. Depending on what’s available or affordable, these mix-ins can include beef, chicken, pork, seafood or even hot dogs.
The brothers, who are from Bolivia, decided to open a Peruvian restaurant to capitalize on the cuisine’s growing popularity and pay homage to the childhood vacations spent at their grandfather’s house in Arequipa, Peru. Dishes such as ceviche, aji de gallina, lomo saltado and arroz chaufa are ubiquitous in Peruvian restaurants, perhaps especially outside of the country. The latter two, both cooked using a wok, represent the fusion of Chinese and Peruvian sensibilities that defines much of the country’s gastronomy.But celebrating that fusion fails to consider the full magnitude of its history, said Raúl Matta, a Peruvian researcher at the University of Göttingen.
When I visited Márquez and the Postigos at Tigo’s kitchen, he was careful to outline the steps needed to prepare chaufa: First, he cooked the mix-in — in this case, chicken marinated with soy sauce and sesame oil — in a flaming wok. The rice got added next, and he kept it moving as it fried. “Watch your eyebrows,” he joked as the flames jumped.Next, he added soy sauce and a touch of oyster sauce, plus ginger, or “kion” in Peru, after the original Cantonese word.
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