Read CathyHoryn's first review out of Couture Fashion Week: 'Fashion designers often get a bad rap for being insensitive beasts or just downright beasts, shock agents, as if they should be sitting up in their ateliers and knitting a sweater'
Photo-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Courtesy of Dior, Schiaparelli, Giambattista ValliPhoto-Illustration: by The Cut; Photos: Courtesy of Dior, Schiaparelli, Giambattista Valli
Daniel Roseberry, the American designer at Schiaparelli, drew fire across the internet for mounting realistic-looking imitations of wild animals on the front or shoulder of dresses. Shalom Harlow got the leopard dress with the animal’s open-mouthed head — the work of artisans using embroidery and paint — positioned just below her own head. To some people, it suggested a big-game trophy. Or maybe that Harlow herself was the prize.
“I like the idea that, when people come into a show, they don’t know what they’re going to be seeing,” Roseberry said. In previous seasons, he has played with Elsa Schiaparelli’s well-known use of Surrealism, which she took from artists of her day. What I find so compelling about Roseberry’s new approach is that he largely cleaned up his surfaces and focused on structure and silhouette.
The Dior archive has photos of Baker attending at least one show in the house and, from 1951, wearing a gown to perform in New York. Chiuri also asked the artist Mickalene Thomas to create a set of portraits of well-known Black women including Lena Horne, Nina Simone, and Hazel Scott.Considering Baker’s cultural significance and the cabaret images of the daring entertainer in the ’20s, Chiuri’s expression — on Monday at the Rodin Museum — might come across as Josie Lite.
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