Meet the chef that's celebrating Appalachian food, and the diverse and dignified people who make it.
. And while Milton may have left the lunchroom and lockers behind long ago, but at Hickory, class is back in session, with a culinary curriculum in the form of a menu and mission focused on one thing: honoring Appalachian food, and the diverse and dignified people who make it.
— in which he chronicled the culture shock he felt when he left his troubled, Kentucky-raised family and their what he calls their "hillbilly values" back in Middletown, Ohio, and scaled the academic towers of Ohio State and Yale Law — was used by pundits and politicians as a cudgel with which to beat Appalachian people into a flat caricature of ignorant, drug-addled hicks, too lazy to lift themselves up by their tattered bootstraps or get out of their own way.
At Comfort, Milton had begun to meld the lessons he'd absorbed on his travels with the wisdom of the people and place that'd raised him and with that, create a new lexicon of modern Appalachian cooking. He pickled, canned, cultivated, and preserved like his family and neighbors had, paying homage to the traditions and skills that had sustained them through cruelly lean times. He celebrated the unique bounty of the land and the diversity of the people who make it their home.
'I've got to go to therapy. I've got to start talking about this. I've got to start taking care of myself. I've got to start allowing myself to be me within this role,' Though Hickory will still have the focus of Milton's previous mission, he's learned a valuable lesson about what he needs to do to sustain his ability to do it. "I've got to take care of myself. The words will be what they are. The work is what I want to stand. What people say or the expectations people will put on me: it is what it is," he says. "As long as I'm not losing myself in that, I'm happy and I can do the work.
And should anyone — a guest, a line cook, a server, a passing stranger — be curious as to what a greasy bean is and why it matters, Milton would be more than delighted to teach them. Just as importantly, he wants to learn what they have to teach him, whether it's about beans or being. "You've gotta be really good at learning to be a good teacher, and when you're in a kitchen, you're learning how to teach people.
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