See every look from Alaïa’s fall 2023 collection:
It was a bold and personal act for Pieter Mulier to invite a small crowd to his apartment in Antwerp to see his fourth Alaïa collection. There we were, sitting on Mulier’s furniture, and some benches he’d hired, in the spectacular triplex at the top of the Riverside Tower, the 1972 Brutalist landmark home he shares with his partner Matthieu Blazy.
“It’s actually very simple. I didn't want to do a big show—I didn’t want cold, distant glamour. I want to do something very intimate, small as Azzedine liked it,” he explained in a separate conversation. His models had performed their long-leggedy Alaïa strides around his apartment in a collection that showed, in close-up, how the clothes fit to the body and even how they sounded, like papery cotton as they rustled past.
Rounded shoulders, sculpted torso, narrowed hips, elongated silhouette: the beginning, in dense immaculately-fitted dark brown jersey, introduced it. There were bodysuits, jackets, bustiers, and flipped-out skating skirts. Eyes zoomed in to figure out the lines of glinting silver that were running down the backs of sleeves and undulating over hips. They were conceptual ‘pins’—part homage to the dressmaking and fitting process, part perverse play on piercing; sharpness versus softness.
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