Still swimmin'
I’ll always credit Salmon Dave’s with opening my eyes to one of spring’s most fleeting pleasures: Copper River king salmon. Before that meal – nearly 20 years ago – I assumed that all salmon was the same, namely mild in flavor, pale in color, and utterly underwhelming. That Copper River king, in contrast, was remarkably rich, buttery, gamey and meaty. The experience set off a years-long obsession with wild salmon while also kindling an appreciation for eating seasonally.
My latest meal at Salmon Dave’s was not nearly as revelatory as that one a few decades back, but it was enjoyable. The restaurant deserves kudos for presenting seafood in a hip, casual, golf course-chic environment as opposed to the stuffy white tablecloth places that existed at the time. Over the years, the chefs have dialed back the Asian-influenced Pacific Rim touches to focus more on American-style seafood classics ripped from the coasts, including those on the Gulf and Great Lakes.
To pair with the physical changes, the kitchen debuted some fresh takes in the form of an East Coast bouillabaisse, “knife and fork” fried chicken with pepper gravy, fish and chips and others. Starring Lake Erie walleye, the fish and chips were exceptional thanks to a crunchy dark amber crust and mild, silky meat within. The plate was piled high with chunky, perfectly fried potato quarters and chip-chopped slaw.
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