There are many ways to make a pudding cake, but what’s essential to its magic is the combination of citrus juice and dairy, a high ratio of wet to dry ingredients, and whipped egg whites.
I moved to New York when I was 18. Not long after that, I enrolled in culinary school on a student loan. It was a disorienting choice at times, even though I kept telling myself that pursuing a trade was “practical.” Most of my friends and roommates were in college preparing for serious careers, and I was in a wrinkled chef’s coat forgetting to dissolve cake yeast into liquid before adding it to kugelhof dough.
Friends of mine remember that time romantically: I’d show up with a whole Charlotte Royale and suite of petit fours for everyone to devour after class. But what I remember is feeling isolated and unsure, struggling to find my place in the kitchen classroom. That didn’t start to change until the night my roommates decided to host a dinner party on our rooftop. I, as the culinary student in residence, was tasked with dessert. It was my first time baking at home since starting school and I knew I needed to rein in my ambition without a stand mixer or much refrigerator space at my disposal.
To adapt the cake to include mango, I decreased the amount of lemon juice to keep it from overpowering the fruit. Then I swapped out the typical milk for buttermilk and yogurt, which added richness and a boost of acidity to replace the lemon. I considered adding a spice or vanilla, but the mango was so flavorful it wasn’t necessary.
This process of experimenting with a recipe that meant something to me, and then sharing it with friends helped me find my raison d’etre in the kitchen. I realized that even if fondant cakes weren’t my thing, I could still use the knowledge I was gaining and apply it in my own way. It was important to follow directions, but also to explore which one I was going in. For me, this cake became a lodestar.
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