South Korea boasts thousands of years of history, but save for a few signature, heavily restored sites like medieval palaces, tourists in Seoul have to dig deep to discover the capital’s architectural heritage.
Within living memory, the bulk of the city’s population lived in hanok, or traditional homes. These single-story, wood-framed, thatch- or tile-roofed cottages lined picturesque lanes, or golmok, granting Olde Seoul a timeless, uniquely Korean quality.
As South Korea swiftly industrialized in the 1960s, 1970s and 1980s, rural dwellers flooded Seoul for work and vast swaths of old homes were bulldozed to make space for modern infrastructure. Population density necessitated endless blocks of high-rise apartments — convenient and comfortable, but aesthetically barren — which now dominate the cityscape.
However, he sees hope in the rising generation of young South Koreans, a newfound appreciation of the country’s heritage, and in nascent changes to long-held investment practices.Mr. Fouser, 61, is an author and academic who divides his time between his home base in Rhode Island and stays in Japan and South Korea. His love for traditional Asian architecture was in the family.
Mr. Fouser himself spent a year in Japan as a high school exchange student. He then took degrees at the University of Michigan and Trinity College, Dublin and relocated to Asia, eventually spending 29 years overseas. He is following a lead set by the late Englishman David Kilburn, who died in 2019 and the late American Peter Bartholomew, who passed away two years later. In a country where — unlike the West — celebrity endorsements of issues are not customary, the three expatriates, with their passion for hanok, won a large and respectful following here.
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