A Difficult, Beautiful Christmas in the Arctic Circle

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A Difficult, Beautiful Christmas in the Arctic Circle
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“On Christmas Eve, the sky turned pink—the first sun the town had seen in weeks, a guide told me. The white clumps of snow atop every branch and needle looked iridescent.” RLSWrites recalls a Christmas in the Arctic.

I had many concerns prior to the morning I spent dogsledding in the northernmost reaches of Finland, but chief among them had not been dog excrement. The intensity of the smell was tempered only by the occasional glimpse of a canine guide lurching to nosh on a hardened nugget of his forerunners’ bodily expulsions.

This was a lofty goal. The lake bed looked smooth as a mirror in photos, but the dogsled pitched and jarred against chunks of ice and snow. You had to yell to be heard over the scrape of the metal blades. The view never changed: white tundra, hazy tree line. It was impossible to get any sense of time elapsed or distance travelled. My glasses froze within minutes, so I put them in a pocket of my snowsuit.

“Northern Lights,” was the muffled reply. She is like me: craving adventure yet averse to physical discomfort. Three of my daughter’s top highlights of the Rovaniemi trip: penis in snow, dogsled poop, sledding in parking lots.

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